One issue I’ve come across with a very beat up Clutch Popper, which is pretty easy to fix is where one (or both) of the rear wheels slips around the axle, therefore not driving the motor. This can happen on very well used/beat up models, and they’ve effectively been written off as no longer working. It’s an easy one to spot, if you turn one of the tires and the opposite tire doesn’t also turn, then that tire is no longer fixed to the axle. Solution – glue it back on! This is another one you could get kids to do (with help), but they need to be a bit older as for a couple of the steps (particularly the gluing) you need to be careful what you’re doing and where you’re getting that glue – i.e. don’t get a 5 year old to give this fix a try on your dining room table:p
So first you’ve got to get the tire off, and even though it’s turning on the axle it still may take some force to lever it off. Easiest to put it in a vice, and with a large screwdriver between the wheel and the chassis, lever the wheel off a bit at a time until it pops off.
Then you just need to glue it back on, but not any old glue for this one. You’ll really need to use an epoxy type (2 part) glue to make sure these wheels stay stuck on for good! Mix the epoxy according to the instructions, just need a very small amount, then apply a little to the axle (use a nail or something like that as an applicator), and put a little into the hole in wheel where the axle will go. Push together until the wheel is fully on, if any extra epoxy has bunched up on the axle near the chassis, then carefully scrape that away – you don’t want to epoxy the wheel to the base!:) Let it sit for a good 8 hours to fully cure/harden (even if it says it cures in 30 minutes or something like that), and it should be good to go.
I had/have one like this, very beat up, but once the wheels were fixed back on (both of them slipped around the axle) it turned out to be one of the best!
Following on from the previous post, there’s another thing to try to help with this (I’ve also added to the bottom of that one) . !!Caveat – only try this (and the other fix that involves either taking the motor out, or pushing the frame walls) if you have a very uncontrollable car where the other less invasive hacks/fixes haven’t worked – this is namely: – Adding weight & sanding smooth tires – Using a meter of PVC anti-slip mat on smooth surface – like this
. This is because it’s possible to make things worse if you’re not careful and difficult to undo i.e. put the frame back into the state it was before.
So after a bit more investigation and experimenting, I think there is another piece to the puzzle – kind of related to the point about the axle movement, and that is movement of the flywheel from side to side. The same effect of crashes applying force to the steel frame of the motor, applies even more so to the flywheel. A spinning flywheel carries a lot of energy and if that is directed against the frame (in a crash) then it will push that out a tiny bit each time. If the flywheel has much movement in a left to right direction, then when it is spinning it may ‘kick’ a bit to one side or the other affecting the direction of the car. So same as with the axle, pushing that far side wall back in a bit will reduce that movement. In fact this should be the first thing to try (for very bad ones only – ones that immediately spin out even with the other hacks/fixes applied) as doesn’t require removing the motor, and it may be all that is required!
You could also try putting in an e-clip/circlip in this gap (could do the same with the axle gap), with some grease, if you don’t want to push the frame. I haven’t tried that yet but could be a good solution – just need to make sure it’s not too tight as getting one of those clips out once in could be difficult/near impossible:)
I have a close to original factory condition model, which is useful for reference, and on that one the flywheel hardly moves from side to side at all. They also applied a factory grease on that joint between the flywheel and the frame, which often has dried up and goes kind of orange with age. So maybe a good idea to put something similar back there before pushing the side back in, maybe like a small amount of white lithium grease or similar.
After this it may still need a little weight, like the one I tried this with, but this fix may just be the ticket for those that really hook/slice badly. I found the best way to push that frame wall in (slowly and gently) was using bent nose pliers like these:
Then you can push in a bit gripping both sides, a bit at a time until that flywheel movement has pretty much gone – there should still be a little movement to allow the flywheel to spin freely, so just push a little, check then spin of the flywheel to make sure it’s not rubbing or too tight – it’s a lot harder to pull that wall back out than it is to push it in!(see caveat above!). Or, as I said before, if you’re not keen on forcing the frame then maybe try an e-clip/circlip, I’ll try this sometime and see how it works and write up the result.
It’s pretty common for one of these clutch poppers, particularly well worn in ones, to curve off to one side when going at full speed. Some may do that extremely, some only a little, and some by some miracle go pretty much dead straight. Why they curve at speed is complicated and probably a combination of several things. But the first thing is whether you really need to care much about it at all, if it curves just a bit then just pointing it on a angle from the start can help, but if it’s a bit extreme there are some things you can do to straighten them up. If you are doing this with your kids it can be quite a good little project as there is a bit of physics involved here.
So as to why this curving happens, I think it is a combination of a few things, but almost always is relative to the speed the flywheel is turning, which as you may have noticed is very fast. There is a lot of kinetic energy stored in that flywheel and I think that is part of picture. Another part is surface it is running on, and how flat that is and how much grip the car can get on it (for this you may need an anti-slip grip mat for the first couple of meters where there is maximum torque applied). And another is how much side to side movement there is in the rear wheels which can cause the body to shift slightly on the axis, which at speed magnifies this in a small (or large) direction change.
With all of these, adding weight to the right place more or less addresses the issue. This is because it can:
counter the force of flywheel if it is shifting and causing movement
push the car more firmly into the ground to counter surface variation and give more grip
center its weight more and make it more difficult to move much on it’s axles if there is some decent movement there
Generally you’ll want to add about 20grams of weight (maybe more maybe less, depends) to the opposing side that the car is tending to turn/curve. You could use coins or a lead fishing sinker hammered into the right shape. Add the weight to either the far side tray (between the front and rear wheel), or right up the front by the bumper, I’ve found for some right up by the bumper works best, not entirely sure why! Use blu-tack or similar to hold in place so can easily rejig if needed.
Here’s an example, do the opposite if curving to the right.
You may still need to use some PVC anti-slip matting for the first meter if running on a very smooth surface – like this stuff:
So one thing I have found, I think, is that the more horizontal movement in that rear axle is a pretty good indicator of how much it is going to turn. I think this movement is caused by many repeated big hits on the axles after crashes, which causes the internal brass gear and ring on either side of the axle to push the steel side wall out just a tiny bit each time, resulting in a larger gap and therefore more movement. Thing is I’ve got one that is extremely beat up, and not a huge amount of movement, and one that is not too bad that had quite a lot – and that one spun out like crazy, so its not always about how beat up they are. Pushing the side walls back in a bit to close that gap more or less fixed the bad one – but that was very difficult and I very nearly stuffed it for good (and required drilling the motor out and putting it in a vice).
So I wouldn’t really recommend trying to fix like that, and actually the right amount of weight should still more or less sort out even those bad ones, and I wouldn’t worry too much about small veering off – with kids they can even make a game out it as it can make a challenge to go through a certain gap/ posts/ finish line / bowling pin targeting:)
You could also try putting in an e-clip/circlip in this gap, with some grease (white lithium), if you don’t want to push the frame. I haven’t tried that yet but could be a good solution – just need to make sure it’s not too tight as getting one of those clips out once in could be difficult/near impossible:)
They actually addressed/solved this issue in the single clutch Dune Crawler, by adding brass sleeves to the exterior part of the axle between the wheel and the motor which stops/absorbs any horizontal movement before it is translated into the motor gears. Unfortunately for whatever reason they decided not to add that enhancement to any of the subsequent models which is a shame as is quite difficult to add something like that post assembly.
All in all I think real kudos needs to go to the designers of these things, the fact that they continue to operate at all with the force and speed they crash at, repeatedly over years, is a credit to the design engineers, end to end.